Harvest and the Big Mill

Corn stooks
Now westlin winds and slaught'ring guns
Bring Autumn's pleasant weather;
The moorcock springs on whirring wings,
Amang the blooming heather:
Now waving grain, wide o'er the plain,
Delights the weary farmer;
And the moon shines bright, as I rove at night,
To muse upon my charmer.

Song Composed in August
Robert Burns 

The end of summer is marked by lengthening shadows, the inward creep of sunrise and sunset, and the first hint of a chill in the air. Leaves that once showed a range of pristine greens are dull, holed and tattered. The harbingers of autumn are already rustling in the gutters. Apples, plums and elderberries bend the boughs and vagrant wasps become stupid and aggressive as their colonies decline. The garden display recedes to a limited palette of crocosmia, Japanese windflowers and Michaelmas daisies. An art teacher friend told me he didn’t like asters because they heralded the beginning of autumn term and the close of his seven-week sojourn as a part-time artist and full-time lotus-eater.

Pavement Michaelmas daisies or asters in decline, early September
Elderberries

In the country, the seasons had more practical implications. Once the hay was secured in July, attention turned to the harvest. In wet upland East Ayrshire wheat was never an option and barley varieties that could be relied upon to ripen and stay upright in the rain were a later development. As a boy, the farm depended solely on a third cereal, oats, as a grain crop. Oats are known as ‘corn’ in Scotland. The corn was used for cattle feed over the winter. Before the advent of silos, corn was stored in open bunkers in outhouses – an open invitation to vermin. With some corn in a noisy pail, and a head collar and rope hidden behind my back, I used it as bait to capture my pony.

As Dr Johnson pointed out, oats are fed to horses in England but in Scotland they sustain the people. Oatmeal was our rice. The tall stiff stems of oats resist beating down by the weather, slowly yellowing and displaying their grain in ears, covered by papery chaff. The traditional method of harvesting oats does not involve a combine harvester cutting and threshing the crop in a single process. My only experience of a combine as a boy was on my uncle’s farm south of Dalkeith in Midlothian. I watched as the great machine made its dusty progress across his dry wheat fields, eating up the cereal. The grain was spewed out into an escorting trailer and the straw deposited in long rows onto the field. To a farmer, a cleared stubble field is indeed a delight.

On the west coast farm of my youth, the process of harvesting oats was more complicated and protracted. Once ready, the field was opened manually using scythes, the cut corn was bundled into small sheaves by tying a few stalks around it. Then the reaper-binder, towed by a tractor, moved in. In addition to the tractor driver a second man perched on a seat on the binder itself. The binder featured a wheel similar to one of those paddles on a Mississippi riverboat. It gathered the corn onto the blades where, shorn, it dropped onto canvas belts. These carried the stalks upwards where they where automatically tied into bundles with ‘binder twine’. Tines chucked the completed sheaf out sideways onto the field as the machine progressed. In that state the corn was not yet ready for storage and required further drying in the field. This was done by creating stooks of several sheaves propped against each other. Manual labour was required to stook the sheaves, a process that exposed our vulnerable arms to thistles and insects. My father, an elder, supplied a couple of nice yellow sheaves to the church as decoration for harvest thanksgiving.

Once sufficiently matured by wind and sun, the sheaves were forked off the field onto a trailer and taken to the stack yard, a small field that was part of the farm steading. There they were built into large round Monet-esque stacks. The stacks were set on a base of boulders to keep the straw off the ground. Sheaves were stacked radially with the wider bases to the outside. The stacks could be as high as the roof of a farm building with a thatched conical top. A canvas tarpaulin hap was placed over the stack and weighed down by roped-on bricks to protect it from the weather. Like the loose corn in the outhouses, the crowded stacks supported large numbers of birds and rodents attracted to the free food. It is the origin of the seed-eating chaffinch’s name. Stacks looked great crowded together. I loved their bulk and their sweet smell.

Once the stack yard was filled, there remained the business of threshing; of separating the oats from the chaff and straw stalks. Safely stored in stacks, threshing could await the arrival of the ‘big mill’. The mill men would tour the neighbouring farms with their threshing machine, dealing with everyone’s stacks in turn. My mother was expected to feed the visitors, who arrived at the usual, extremely early, agricultural hour. I recall waking up in bed to the smell of bacon, tobacco, engine oil and sweat emanating from the kitchen downstairs.

The mill was powered by a long belt drive from a stationary tractor. The grain dropped into hessian sacks and the straw was fed into an adjacent baler. As the stack went down, its inhabitants were revealed. Trouser legs were tied with binder twine, the base of the stack was surrounded by unrolled chicken wire, sticks were taken up and the dogs were sent in.

The men would entertain us with stories of rats running up trouser legs. One of them claimed to have trapped a rat against his back by flexing forwards to tighten his shirt on top of it. His colleague then dealt with his passenger using a broken brush handle. He then pulled his shirt out and the dead rat dropped to the ground. After the mill had been, the stack yard reverted to a wildflower meadow and playground with its resident ducks, bantams and chickens. One of our henhouses was in the stack yard.

Later we did manage to grow and harvest barley which was stored in a silo tower. The silo made a good viewing platform but the effect on farm life was striking. The bounty of stored or spilled corn was no longer available and the population of finches, rodents – and the predators who depended on them – crashed.

Numerous stacks are a reflection of a farm’s productivity and prosperity. My grandfather who began life as a tenant farmer was famously stern, business-like and astute. As a young man, just after the First World War, and after he had almost died of Spanish flu, one of his friends asked a favour. He needed to meet his young lady’s parents to ask for their daughter’s hand. The friend was nervous about the outcome of this encounter and asked my grandfather to accompany him. The visit to the parental farm was set for a Sunday after church. The two lads arrived in good time to find the family had not yet returned from worship. No one was at home. Taking his responsibilities seriously, my grandfather grabbed his friend’s arm urgently and said, ‘Quick, let’s go round the back and count the stacks!’

Not vernal show'rs to budding flow'rs, 
Not Autumn to the farmer, 
So dear can be as thou to me, 
My fair, my lovely charmer!

October 2020

It’s the ‘backend’ and the geese have been arriving for weeks now. They are seeking out our balmy southern climes for their winter break. The first time their honking calls draw your eyes skywards to their ragged V formations is a punctuation mark in the seasons. Have they just come in from Iceland off the North Sea or are they on their new daily commute from shore to field? Flying at 24,000 feet must have its problems with oxygen supply, but the cold air at passenger jet altitude helps cool their labouring flight muscles.

Before the turkey arrived from the New World and took over Christmas we ate geese – and before that we presumably ate wild geese. Their arrival must have been a winter bounty to our ancestors. Latterly years of ‘sporting’ slaughter diminished their numbers to perilous levels. The mechanic on our farm was a fisherman and a shooter. He took great delight in informing me that, as a young man, Sir Peter Scott used to shoot over the Solway marshes. Conservation efforts have resulted in a recovery in goose numbers and the grumbling has begun from other land-users. In places like Islay there is now a huge biomass of birds to sustain. Geese are grazing animals and get through large quantities of grass, but the necessity to rise instantly should a predator appear means they cannot afford the luxury of a heavy, efficient digestive tract. Instead they rapidly extract the most accessible nutrients before the rest is somewhat wastefully discarded back onto the field. Culling of barnacle and white-fronted geese occurs on Islay. In fact a large chunk of Islay is owned by the RSPB who manage most of their land for the benefit of the geese.

Scotland’s meagre population of red-billed chough are resident on Islay all year round and are only just clinging on at about 50 pairs. The RSPB keep grazing livestock to encourage them. Throughout the year the chough depend on foraging for invertebrates among the sheep droppings and cowpats. The first chough I ever saw was on Islay with my artist friend Jim Dalziel. The aerial acrobatics and ‘keeyah’ calls among the sand dunes were magical and I treasure the watercolour he did of them. More recently, as if the lack of food and habitat wasn’t bad enough, these birds have developed a form of congenital blindness due to their limited genetic diversity. It’s a recessive gene which is lethal to the affected nestlings.

Here, on the east side of the country, you can stand on the shore at Aberlady Bay and see squadrons of pink-footed geese coming in. It is genuinely one of the great wildlife spectacles. Numbers in that roost peak at about 30,000 before the birds disperse inland. At the other end of winter their noisy departure lifts the spirits with the promise of lengthening days and eventually some warmth.

Other bird species have also suffered a crash in numbers – but for more mysterious reasons. Starlings, song thrushes, house sparrows and latterly greenfinches have all had problems. When we first moved into our house 28 years ago there was a cheerful colony of house sparrows hanging around the back garden. They were always there and reminded me of being at home on the farm – but then, quite suddenly, they were gone. It gave me a thrill this year to see sparrows return to the garden for the first time in 25 years. It was actually more enjoyable to me than my recent garden life-tick of a nuthatch; an inevitable addition to the list as this interesting bird continues its astonishing northerly advance.

Sadly, there is little sign of a recovery in the greenfinch numbers. Trichomoniasis, allegedly from dirty bird feeders, has done for them. I always notice the occasional nasal ‘zwee’ call these days because it was once so familiar but is now so uncommon. Assuming the usual malign human influences don’t underlie these avian malthusian problems, the recent population fluctuations must be the result of some kind of bird plague. In which case, there’s a grim irony to the autumn arrival of all these healthy birds who find us wandering about below them in our masks, assiduously avoiding any close formation.

Islay Choughs. JPR Dalziel